PCT Day 111 – Rushing into Etna

Statue Creek (mile 1591) to Sawyer’s Bar Road to Etna (mile 1600)

It’s only nine miles to the road into the town of Etna, and we are flying down the trail. Even though I was so sore last night that I didn’t sleep very well, I’m pushing myself up our one small climb of the day eager to get into town. Already it’s uncomfortably hot, the sun beating down from the clear merciless sky; the afternoon thunder clouds haven’t begun to build yet, haven’t begun to provide their mixed blessing of shade and humidity. The choice to override my body’s comfort to get into town, food, showers, is one I’m ready and willing to make; thru hiking is endless days of constant low-grade discomfort, what’s a few more hours? Plus, I have birthday goodies waiting for me in town, and while I’m birthday party ambivalent I’m never going to turn down free cake. Especially when my body has begun to feel like an endless well of hunger.

We pop onto the road after three hours of hiking and 30 minutes later the first car of the day swoops by and drives us into town. Via one winding road we are deposited on Main Street Etna—a few buildings and a grocery store support the 700 residents. There are two breweries, three restaurants (none of which are open on Monday), and one coffee shop which has been owned by the same family for two generations. To the west rolling yellow fields capture the midday sun, while to the east round hills of stoic pine trees bask in the mist of afternoon rain which will never reach the valley floor. It’s beautiful in a way that recalls a childhood spent rolling into these kinds of towns in our families pop-up camper, days or weeks into the summer photography trips we accompanied my father on, eating in the diners that every small town has. As we walk through the town I wonder who are the people who love to live here, what their daily lives are like, their dramas and concerns. In rural America I have only ever been a visitor.