PCT Day 149 – Getting There

Campsite at mile 2377 to Snoqualmie Pass (mile 2393)

When I wake it is to find a thin layer of condensation on my sleeping bag and trees shrouded in mist. Not smoke by golly, but genuine mist. This is the Washington I love, all brooding forests draped in cool fog and soft light. This sudden change in weather reminds me that summer is almost over, that this hike is almost over. And surprisingly, I don’t feel sad about that. Not in the way I did in Oregon, when the thought of the northern terminus clenched my chest tight with emotion and sparked tears in my eyes. With the time and miles of Washington I have begun the slow process of moving beyond this hike, a process I’m not sure will ever fully end. But for now I can begin to reflect on everything I have done this year, on everything Starman and I have done together over the course of all these months and miles we’ve spent working in tandem towards this goal. I feel not just content, but proud of what we’ve done. And even though the adventure is not over yet I feel at ease with our journey, imperfections and all.

We roll 16 miles to Snoqualmie Pass, stopping along the banks of a lake where there is miraculously service and poking at our phones for an hour. Letting the world beyond the trail intrude for a little while as Starman coordinates rides and hotels for a bachelor party he’s attending this weekend. Only it doesn’t feel like an intrusion anymore, not really. In the way that I’ve stopped referring to life away from the trail as the real world, as though the life of cars and jobs is more valid, more real than this simplified life outdoors. I know that the coming transition from wandering hiker to driven worker will be eased by my continued desire to play outside. That the end of the trail will leave room for new adventures to begin, and for that I am giddy with excitement.

PCT Day 148 – Even the Downhills are Uphill

Campsite at mile 2352 to campsite at mile 2377

When we walked across the Bridge of the Gods into Washington I thought of what my friend Sarah texted me: “Welcome to Washington, where up is the new normal.” Damn, did she know what she was talking about. Half way through the state and I still can’t get over how much elevation gain there is. For example, today we’ll hike 25 miles with over 5,000 feet of gain AND LOSS! Each! This means the trail ascends 1,000 feet, and descends 1,000 feet for every five miles. If you’re not a hiker, just know that’s a lot. A lot. And I’m feeling it today.

We stop for lunch in the shade next to a shockingly cold spring which bubbles up from nothing before rolling down and away into the trees. I urge Starman to hike ahead of me, he’s cruising today and I don’t want to slow him down, I don’t want to try and keep up, I just want to plod along until camp. Plus, if Starman is far ahead of me then I can’t complain about how tired I am until we cut the day short. I don’t want to hike 13 more miles, but I know I’ll be more disappointed in myself if we shortchange our milage today. Sometimes I think that we do our best work, push ourselves the hardest, when there is simply no other choice. Thru hiking is good for that. Eventually Starman relents and I watch his back recede into the trees until he’s gone. I’ll come to find out later that he’ll get to camp two hours before I will. Neato.

But I don’t know that now so I dig into my food bag and use the ice cold spring water to make myself a trail iced coffee. In which I throw a few packets of instant coffee mix into a bottle and shake until most of the granules are gone. It’s certainly not the best, but I’m running short on food this section, hoping I can make up for that fact with a hearty dose of afternoon caffeine. I pair this with a Harry Potter audiobook and head off into the afternoon sun.

I climb relentlessly up, only to turn a corner and follow the trail back down. It’s fine, it really is. Even as I sit in the middle of the trail in the early evening with not a soul around and my legs too tired to make it up this climb without a break, I know it’s fine. I think about the food I’ll eat in town, reimagining it again and again, swapping bits around, making it better each time. Weirdly this is helpful when I’m really hungry. Maybe it’s knowing that I’ll have ample access to food in the future. Knowing that I live in a world of abundance and access. That this discomfort is finite, temporary in the extreme and that I chose to be here. I chose this. So I rise and make my way up the rest of the climb towards camp. It’s fine, it really is.

PCT Day 147 – Maybe Smokey Bear Lied to You

Bear Gap Trail Junction (2329) to campsite at mile 2352

In the afternoon the lush green northwestern forest gives way to yet another desolate burn area. Any livable ecosystem has been scorched away, taking with it all animals and their corresponding calls. What is left is the creaking of dead trees, sharp snaps of falling branches ricochet through the air undisturbed by anything living. A single stream makes a valiant effort at life, florescent green leaves spring from along the bank. Their inherent liveliness standing in stark contrast to the black earth.

In the silence I think back to something another hiker told me at Trail Days. How they were frustrated by the number of burns they’d walked through in Oregon, calling them pointless, and wasteful. They believed like so many do, that fires are purely distructive and lack any benefit. This hiker, like myself, had likely been raised on Smokey Bear telling them that the only way to protect the forest was to eliminate any wild fires. But they, like myself and perhaps you too dear reader, have largely been misinformed, and are only now coming to recognize how foolish our understanding of fires have historically been.

For those of you who were raised in the west, this is likely a familiar story. If that’s you, then feel free to skip ahead a paragraph. Otherwise read on, you might just learn something. The current dictum of aggressive fire suppression which the National Forest Service so vehemently upholds is largely a reaction to The Big Burn, the largest fire in American history which in 1910 burned 3,000,000 achers of land in the Rockey Mountains in Colorado, Montana, and Idaho. The fire killed 86 people. In response the Forest Service adopted a policy which sought to extinguish wildfires as quickly as possible. Smokey Bear was introduced to the world as the friendly face of wildfire suppression, telling the American people that a healthy forest was one that never burned. Unfortunately, Smokey was wrong, the USFS was wrong, and only in recent years have people come to accept that forest fires are in integral part of forest health—that seeking to control every wild burn is perhaps the worst thing we could have done for the health of our forests.

This new understanding of the necessity of forest fires for the health of the forest ecosystem is representative of a larger shift in human awareness, albeit one that has been slow to catch on. The realization that nature does not exist for human domination. That the frustration one might feel while hiking through their twentieth burn of the trail is so minuscule when viewed in comparison to the health of the natural world around us as to be laughable. In the crudest sense, it’s simply not about you, about us. This world is not ours for the taking or making, but rather if we are to survive as a species we must learn to live in symbiosis with the world around us. As humans we are overly skilled at placing ourselves at the center of the universe, but it’s a tendency that we’ll have to overcome.

In the final miles of the day I hike through a sick forest. Blowdowns and deadfalls clutter the understory, competing for room with saplings and dense bushes, all shaded by the bigger trees looming overhead, blocking much of the sunlight from reaching the ground. My pathway is only clear due to the countless hours of volunteer trail crews. I wonder when the last time this area saw a fire, and how massive and destructive the next one might be, with every square inch of ground cluttered with drying kindling. Like an old body that can no longer fight off an illness, so too will the next ember to find this land be fatally consuming. But then again, all things die. And only when compared to our brief human lives is the lifespan of a forest a tragedy.